Paris Fashion Week blurs the line between runway and performance – The Journal

Blurring the line between fashion and performance, the Japanese house of Issey Miyake for Homme Plisse used a troupe of acrobats who twisted, danced and apparently courted death for a spectacular Paris Fashion Week men’s show.

PARIS (AP) – Blurring the line between fashion and performance, the Japanese house of Issey Miyake for Homme Plisse used a troupe of acrobats who writhed, danced and apparently courted death for a spectacular Paris Fashion Week men’s show.

Here are some highlights from Thursday’s Spring-Summer 2023 shows in Paris.

FASHION THAT CHALLENGES DEATH

In eye-popping hues inspired by flowers and vases, the models mingled with the artists inside the recently refurbished La Poste du Louvre for this unusual and sensitive showcase of fashion models through dance.

From a hidden ledge high above the courtyard dance floor, a dance troupe suddenly stood up mid-show to a gasp from the audience. In pastel-colored pleated dresses with a loose fit, the artists then descended the stairs, before performing death-defying jumps, tumbles and falls. The performers were launched into the air like missiles, to be captured by the dancers across the courtyard. There was no safety net over the hard stone floor.

The show was directed by Rachid Ouramdane of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, with a collective of acrobats, Compagnie XY.

Fashion itself was soft in comparison. Gradual curves at the neck and navel emulated the shapes of vessels with a nice weight that produced a dynamic silhouette. A pleated tunic in pastel red was paired with a short jacket, with chest panels reminiscent of an Asian warrior. Elsewhere, a vivid dandelion vest sported studded pockets that opened like a flower opening.

Color blocking was a strong theme too – pastel purple contrasted with blush and raisin black on one look and pastel yellow and midnight blue. It was a strong return to the catwalk for Homme Plisse at Issey Miyake.

THE ANCIENT EGYPT OF RICK OWENS

American designer Rick Owens was inspired by the ancient world, returning from a stay in Egypt and a visit to the Edfu Temple on the Nile.

Often the philosopher Owens has stated that his “personal concerns seemed insignificant in the face of that kind of timelessness”. In recent seasons he has commented on the impact the pandemic has had on fashion and beyond, and has embraced the block as a moment of introspection.

Owens has always had an aesthetic twist on Ancient Egyptian clothing, with togas, draperies, and high priestess styles gracing her runways. But Thursday’s show turned up the dial for a very personal take on such silhouettes.

“Lying in the land with the Valley of the Kings in sight was a prospect that I liked,” he said.

Like the long stone carvings of the ancient temple, the silhouettes were elongated by overlapping garments to lower the navel. The dark flared trousers were so long that the fabric skimmed the stone steps as the models walked along the Palais de Tokyo venue. It created a funky surreal effect.

“Extreme shoulders” – giant and rounded – created this Egyptian priest vibe, crafted by the American fashion master in silk chiffon, cool cotton and flamboyant plaid.

The models wear creations as part of Issey Miyake Homme Plisse’s Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection unveiled in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Francois Mori)

The models wear creations as part of Issey Miyake Homme Plisse’s Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection unveiled in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Francois Mori)

The models wear creations as part of Issey Miyake Homme Plisse’s Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection unveiled in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Francois Mori)

The models wear creations as part of Issey Miyake Homme Plisse’s Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection unveiled in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation as part of Issey Miyake Homme Plisse’s Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation as part of Rick Owens’ Spring Summer 2023 men’s collection presented in Paris, France on Thursday 23 June 2022. (AP Photo / Christophe Ena)